From mid-September through late November, forests and markets brim with chanterelles, porcini, oyster, and hen-of-the-woods. Cooler, damp weather concentrates aroma and gives cooks deeply savory options. Roast or dry-sauté to drive off moisture, then finish with butter, thyme, and a splash of sherry or soy. Fold into risotto and pastas, pile on toast, or simmer into soups, ragu, and gravy for weeknights and feasts alike. Store unwashed in a paper bag, brush clean just before cooking, and slice thick for meaty texture. Pair with potatoes, greens, cream, and eggs to let the umami shine.
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