Rigatoni Alla Gricia
Ingredients
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- 6 ounces guanciale – cut into 0.25-inch batons
- 3 1/2 ounces Pecorino Romano – finely grated
- 1 tsp black pepper – freshly ground
- 1 1/2 tbsp kosher salt
- 12 ounces rigatoni
Instructions
1. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil over high heat.
2. Place the guanciale, cut into 0.25-inch batons, in a wide cold skillet. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the pieces are golden and crisp, 10–12 minutes; transfer the crispy bits to a bowl, leaving the rendered fat in the skillet.
3. Salt the boiling water with the kosher salt, add the rigatoni, and cook until 2 minutes shy of al dente, 8–10 minutes; reserve 1.5 cups of the starchy cooking water.
4. Add about 0.5 cup hot pasta water to the rendered fat and add the black pepper. Simmer over medium heat, swirling, until emulsified and fragrant, 1–2 minutes.
5. Use a spider or slotted spoon to transfer the pasta directly to the skillet. Toss over medium heat, adding splashes of pasta water as needed, until coated and just al dente, 1–2 minutes.
6. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the Pecorino Romano in 2–3 additions, tossing vigorously and adjusting with more hot pasta water as needed to form a glossy, creamy sauce that clings to the pasta, 1–2 minutes.
7. Fold the crispy bits back into the pan and toss to combine. Let rest 1 minute to thicken slightly, then plate and serve immediately.
Rigatoni alla Gricia is one of Rome’s cornerstone pastas, prized for its short list of ingredients and big flavor. It marries the savory depth of cured pork jowl with the salty tang of Pecorino Romano and the gentle heat of black pepper. Thanks to an emulsion of rendered fat and starchy pasta water, the sauce turns silky and coats each ridged tube of rigatoni while crisp lardons add satisfying texture.
Often called the ancestor of Amatriciana, Gricia likely predates the introduction of tomatoes to Italian cooking. The name’s origin is attributed either to the village of Grisciano near Amatrice or to gricio, a term for Roman bread sellers of German origin who were known for simple, hearty fare. Today it stands alongside cacio e pepe, carbonara, and amatriciana as a pillar of Roman cuisine, exemplifying the city’s skill at transforming a handful of ingredients into something iconic.