iRamen

1. Tie the pork belly into a tight log with kitchen twine. Heat a medium pot over medium heat and brown the pork belly on all sides, 6–8 minutes total.

2. Add 0.5 cup soy sauce, 0.5 cup sake, 0.5 cup mirin, 1 cup water, 2 tablespoons sugar, 4 smashed garlic cloves, 1 ounce sliced ginger, and 4 scallions (cut into lengths). Bring to a simmer, cover loosely, and braise at a gentle simmer, turning occasionally, until tender but sliceable, 1.5–2 hours. Let the pork cool in its liquid, then reserve 0.5 cup of the braising liquid for the eggs.

3. Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Lower in 4 large eggs and cook 6.5 minutes for jammy centers. Transfer to an ice bath until cold, then peel. Submerge the peeled eggs in the reserved chashu liquid (turn occasionally to coat) and refrigerate 4–12 hours.

4. In a separate pot, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add 3 pounds chicken wings and 1.5 pounds pork neck bones and blanch 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the bones and wings under cold water.

5. In a clean large pot, combine the blanched bones and wings with 5 quarts water, 1 halved onion, 6 smashed garlic cloves, 2 ounces sliced ginger, 1 bunch scallion greens, 1 ounce dried shiitake, and 1 piece kombu (about 4x4 inches). Bring slowly toward a simmer; remove and discard the kombu after 30 minutes. Maintain a bare simmer (no rolling boil), skimming scum as needed, until the broth is full-flavored and light in body, 3.5–4.5 hours. In the last 30 minutes, skim off and reserve about 0.5 cup of chicken fat for aroma oil.

6. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot and keep it hot over low heat.

7. Make the shoyu tare: In a small saucepan, combine 0.75 cup soy sauce, 0.25 cup sake, 0.25 cup mirin, 1 cup water, and 1 piece kombu (about 3x3 inches). Heat just to a bare simmer, then remove from the heat, add 1 ounce katsuobushi, and steep 10 minutes. Strain and keep warm.

8. Slice the cooled chashu into 1/4-inch rounds. Halve the marinated eggs lengthwise. Warm serving bowls.

9. Bring 4 quarts water to a rolling boil. Add 24 ounces fresh ramen noodles and cook, stirring, until just tender with a springy bite, 1–2 minutes (check package cues). Drain well.

10. Assemble each bowl: Add 2–3 tablespoons tare to a warmed bowl and about 1 tablespoon reserved chicken fat. Ladle in 12–14 ounces hot broth and taste; adjust with a little more tare if needed. Add a portion of noodles and top with several slices of chashu, 1/4 cup menma, a handful of thinly sliced scallions, and 1 half sheet of nori. Serve immediately while piping hot.